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Loan Comparison Calculator

Put two loan offers next to each other - amount, rate, term and upfront fees - and see the monthly payment, total interest and true total cost of each.

Offer A

Offer B

Why the lower rate is not always the cheaper loan

Lenders compete on two numbers that pull in opposite directions: the interest rate and the cash you hand over at closing. Discount points are the clearest example. One point costs 1% of the loan amount and usually buys the rate down by roughly 0.25%. Whether that trade is worth it depends entirely on how long you keep the loan, so the only fair comparison is a side-by-side view of monthly payment, total interest and upfront cost.

This calculator amortizes each offer with the standard fixed-payment formula, M = P x r x (1 + r)^n / [(1 + r)^n - 1], where P is the amount borrowed, r is the annual rate divided by 12 and n is the number of monthly payments. It then adds the fees you typed in to the sum of all payments to get a true total cost for each offer.

A worked example

Offer A: $300,000 for 30 years at 6.5% with $3,000 in lender fees. The payment is $1,896.20 a month, total payments come to $682,633 and total interest is $382,633. With fees, the loan costs $685,633.

Offer B: the same $300,000 and term at 6.125%, but the lender charges $8,000 because you bought two points. The payment drops to $1,822.83, total interest falls to about $356,219, and total cost including fees is roughly $664,219. Offer B saves about $21,400 over the full term.

The catch is timing. You save $73.37 a month but pay $5,000 more up front, so the break-even is $5,000 / $73.37 = about 68 months, or five and a half years. Sell or refinance before then and Offer A was the better deal. That is why the tool prints the break-even alongside the totals.

Reading the first-year breakdown

The second table shows where year one actually goes. On Offer A you pay $22,754 in that first year, but only about $3,353 reduces the balance; the other $19,401 is interest. That is normal for an amortizing loan and it explains why paying a point to cut the rate has such a large effect early on, and why a few extra principal payments in the first years matter more than the same dollars later.

Two cautions. First, compare like with like: use the same loan amount and term in both columns, or the totals are not meaningful. Second, some closing costs - appraisal, title, recording, prepaid property taxes - are the same no matter which lender you pick, so either enter them in both columns or leave them out of both. Only lender-specific charges change the answer.

Frequently asked questions

Should I pay points to lower my rate?

Only if you will keep the loan past the break-even point. Divide the extra upfront cost by the monthly savings: $5,000 of points that save $73 a month breaks even in about 68 months. The median homeowner moves or refinances well before 30 years, so a long break-even usually argues against points.

Is the offer with the lower APR always cheaper?

Usually, but not always. APR spreads the fees over the full term, so it flatters loans with high fees and low rates if you plan to pay off or refinance early. Compare total cost over the period you actually expect to hold the loan, which is what the break-even line here shows.

What counts as upfront fees and points?

Lender-specific charges: origination or underwriting fees, discount points, application fees, and rate-lock extension fees. Skip third-party costs that do not change between lenders, such as the appraisal, title insurance in most states, and prepaid property taxes or insurance.

Can I compare loans with different terms?

Yes, but read the result carefully. A 15-year loan will almost always show far less total interest than a 30-year loan at the same rate, while the monthly payment is much higher. Check that the higher payment fits your budget before treating the lower total as a win.